The recipe book dates back to 2009. It is a collection of my paint schemes and choices – my “recipes” – for the various miniatures I’ve painted. The first entry is for my Games Workshop Moria goblins that I used as test subjects to (re)learn on. Nearly all of my minis are recorded in this book.

Some entries, I reference previous entries. Like for the Intellect Devourer that I’m going to paint. The “brain” portion of the body will be painted similar to how I painted the exposed flesh/brains of the Doppelganger that I painted back in August.

 Unfortunately, my recipe book is almost full.

My Dad always said “If you like something, buy two… one is going to wear out or break.” Well, I had bought two of these notebooks a long time ago. Soon, probably by Spring, I’ll be filling its pages with more recipes.

 Do you have a recipe book for your painting? What are you doing to record what you did and how you did it?

4 thoughts on “The Recipe Book”
  1. Hey ChicagoWiz,

    I'm just catching up on some of your posts.

    No notebook painting here. I'm pretty much a straight pallette painter.

    But, I love reading about your campaign and world building ideas.

    You got it goin' on.

    -derv

  2. Hi derv, welcome! From OD&D Board, right?

    What do you mean by "straight palette painter"? I paint off of a wet palette, if that's what you mean?

    You'll like tomorrow's post about scales. It also has a war ox. Because… war ox.

  3. That makes sense. I mostly do that as well, but the recipe book allows me to remember what I did. Since I use craft paints (DecoArt, Americana, Apple Barrel), they usually need a bit of thinning and the wet palette makes that very easy, plus easier to mix colors and keep them wet while I paint a few dozen of the same. damn. figure.

    I usually do a flesh, hair color, armor color, two or three colors for the outfits if needs be, some metal for weapons and shiny bits, leather/raw sienna for the obvious leather bits and that's about it. I use the paint on dip method, using Tudor Miniwax for most of my figures, unless I'm trying out something fancy and doing something different.

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